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HRD

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Reply with quote  #1 
If it works, mess with it anyway. That's the category this mod falls into.


Like strolling through a hardware store and thinking of how to use things for unintended purposes, similar to seeing BBQ igniters and PVC pipe, and thinking, potato cannon, I often do the same thing with my spare time and EBay.


So...for a while, I seen these inexpensive hydraulic motorcycle clutch assemblies, and pretty much knew, right away, what I could use one for.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-Handlebar-Black-Hydraulic-Brake-Clutch-Lever-Master-Cylinder-Pit-Bike/303204558682?hash=item469866675a:g:rWwAAOSwRKhdFW5j
[s-l1600] 


The front brake on the 200ES isn't exactly powerful, so converting it to a hydraulic setup seemed like a way to possibly improve it, or at least decrease the force needed to pull the lever.

These come in a few flavors. I opted to buy one complete, knowing it would be on the left of the bars, which was fine, because my 200ES didn't have the parking brake anyway. If that's a problem, all the components are available piecemeal, so just use a front brake reservoir which will be on the right side.

The one I used could stand to have a shorter hose, to clean up the routing, but it isn't too bad and I haven't hung it up in brush so far.

There are the separate cylinders that come with a clasp, which would further simplify the mod. I made my own.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Hydraulic-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Brake-Rod-Pump-Aluminum-M10x1-25mm/264379900390?hash=item3d8e4521e6:m:mlLoBQCXAlyihNSfKOhJ8yA
[s-l1600] 




The brake plate needs the cable hole enlarged very little. Just the next size up from the existing hole.
IMG_20190223_162633.jpg 

Before going any further,those aren't 200ES forks, they're 185/200S forks with the ES front wheel. It works. Just have to add the headlight and rack brackets and narrow down the ES hub. Same size front brake though, so this is still valid and will work on the 185/200S too. Tire choice is limited with these forks though. The stock 25x12x9 fits, but true tire sizes vary. The Kenda Scorpion fits, but any wider and it'd rub the forks.


I made a clasp from an air fitting and a bolt. The air fitting had the correct I.D. and a step inside already, plus I have a drawer full of them. Repurpose!

IMG_20190223_163956.jpg  IMG_20190223_170339.jpg  IMG_20190406_121535.jpg  IMG_20190406_133015.jpg  IMG_20190406_133059.jpg 
IMG_20190406_174140.jpg  IMG_20190406_140424.jpg  The cylinder isn't touching the wheel or tire. There's enough clearance that I'm not concerned about it. The hose it too long and I didn't put it through the cable hoop on the fender because of that. The angle it would be at, would make it touch the fuel tank at full right lock. I may be able to go back and reroute it so it would work, but I don't want to take the hose off and have to bleed it again.


Which brings me to that; bleeding. THERE IS NO BLEEDER ON THE CYLINDER! This setup is pretty much self bleeding, BUT, the cylinder needs to be oriented with the banjo bolt facing up and level. It still takes some jiggling to get all the air bubble to move up the line and out of the open reservoir, vomiting fluid all over the place with every stroke of the piston. A small PITA and necessary trike wash afterward.

Trust me. I made a gigantic mess learning this. A banjo bolt with a bleeder in the center would help, but once install, the angle would still trap air. There's no other simple way to add a bleeder. The red cap on the end just holds the piston in and keeps crap off the back side of it.



The hand guards made it more awkward to route the hose. Where I ride, I won't be without them. In the next pic, the adjustable lever is obvious, and it also flexes forward to prevent damage in a crash. This is cheap unit and the lever is very floppy, just like the rider on a hardtail, so it evens out. Reservoir takes DOT fluid. Says 4 on cap, so that's what I made a synthetic mess with.

IMG_20190224_105819.jpg   
IMG_20190224_105836.jpg 

It takes some adjustment to get it where there's enough stroke to pull the brake fully. I had to move the arm on the splines, crank the lever distance bolt to the fullest extent (the first of the stroke doesn't push fluid), and fiddle with the adjustment nut a bit.

After the first ride, I noticed the brake arm spring didn't have enough umph to fully disengage the brake, so I put the cable spring on. I also cut the nut down, because I didn't have any short enough, or I didn't use a long enough bolt. Six of one, half a dozen of the other.
IMG_1367.jpg  IMG_1368.jpg  IMG_1369.jpg  IMG_1370.jpg  IMG_1371.jpg 


All good now.


Nothing is going to make the tiny drum brake perform like a disk, regardless how hard the arm is pulled. For the same braking performance, the lever pull is lighter with the hydraulic setup, not significantly though. No more cable oiling I guess. Yep, that's a good reason.

I had fun with the project and my labor cost was higher than the parts. A case of quality beer.



No, this wasn't a whole case job, but the time thinking about it and enjoying the completion was.


FHD0003.jpg

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tosaw

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Reply with quote  #2 
Nice job man, I love your ingenuity!
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HRD

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks.

I like these little modifications that don't take a lot of time or money. They're something fun to complete on a rainy day.
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #4 
Handsome machine, great mod.
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HRD

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Reply with quote  #5 
Thank you.

At some point, this whole trike is getting disassembled and the parts put on a good frame I have. This frame has rust holes in the bottom.
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bigredmark

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Reply with quote  #6 
Thank you for the detailed post on this. I too enjoy projects like this one.

Not sure on the feasibility on this but if you could lengthen the brake lever arm it should reduce the lever pull.
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bigredmark

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Reply with quote  #7 
I dig the white fenders and decals - it gives the ATC a clean look. Nice job.
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mendoAu

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Reply with quote  #8 
When are you going to wonder around the hardware store again and find a nice fix to convert a disc brake on that thing? The front brake on my 84 is just slightly better than the bottom of my boot. HA!
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HRD

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigredmark

Not sure on the feasibility on this but if you could lengthen the brake lever arm it should reduce the lever pull.


If you mean the lever on the wheel end, It'd be a compromise leading to longer lever travel. The hydraulic setup couldn't handle more travel, it's currently all used to make it functional. A different master cylinder may improve that.
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