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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #1 
I guess this is the best category for this New Zealand market '85 SuperRed which, decals aside, looks like a US spec '84 200ES BigRed.
As our summer winds down its finally time to move it from work to home for some winter luvn. Its basically well used, complete and running but in need of a birthday with the aim of making it ready for another 30 years!
First job was to knock up a plywood trolley so i can easily move it around my smallish home studio. It kind of slots between the rear chassis rails and bolts up firmly to the front bash guard mounts so its nice and stable to work on.
day1trolley.jpg 

Its new home for the coming months which also means I'll be home = happy wife, happy life.

day1studio.jpg 

My plan is more to recommission than say restore. Having said that i might as well refinish the rims and racks and not sure how far i'll take the plastic's. Mechanically the motor sounds rattly so hoping it might be as easy as tappets and or timing chain but i'll start with a compression check and go from there.

So might as well open a beer, turn on some tunes and crack on with the tear down.....
  • The front forks are toasted so on the lookout for options;

day1fork rust.jpg 
Front brakes look pretty mint;
day1brake drum.jpg 

Front wheel bearings not so much...

day1frnt wheel bearing.jpg 

Front controls are a bit nasty, RH looks correct but sloppy lever, LH isn't correct and I'm gonna need a functioning hand brake;

day1RH lever.jpg 

Everything is colour coded but expected in 1985 Honda might have used a multi plug connector not multiple plugs..... where possible I'm leaving as much as possible connected;

day1electrical.jpg 
Headlight bucket all good but will have a wee hunt around for the rubber boot which has been hacked up.

day1headlight.jpg 

Pretty stoked to find the factory tool set still stashed under the seat;

day1toolset.jpg 

So far so good, will update this thread as and when progress allows;

day1finish.jpg

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bigredmark

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Reply with quote  #2 
Thanks for sharing. You have a nice shop and a nice super red. Those rubber boots for the back of the headlight are hard to find in good shape. I'm with you on beer, tunes, and wrenching in a shop! I look forward to seeing the progress.
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Imcingreds

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Reply with quote  #3 
Awesome machine. Can you plz post dimensions and bolt pattern for the dolly. It pretty cool. Thx!
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #4 
Thanks Imcingreds and sure thing, the top plate of the dolly measures 400x220mm which is a snug fit between the forward chassis rails. I cut a couple of slots and openings at the rear of the trolley so the rear sump guard mounts can slot into place and hook under the plywood as shown below;
trolley.jpg 
I let the forward sump guard bolts make an indentation in the ply to determine their location for drilling and sloped the trolley sides forwards and sideways to gain stability.

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #5 
Easter weekend meant i got to enjoy some unscheduled shed time and chocolate....
I finished the tear down and ran some checks on the engine to decide if it was coming out or staying in the frame. It sounded overly rattly to me but Im not really sure what normal is. First up I attempted to check the compression measuring 125psi before realizing i should have tested it hot but my gauge failed shortly afterwards leaving the test inconclusive. Moving onto the rattle, I found the exhaust tappet needed minor adjustment but luckily the inlet was sweet as. Following a 'D-Ray Smith' youtube tutorial, I adjusted the timing chain tension using a 3.0x0.5mm tap screwed into the tensioner which miraculously and instantly cured the rattle - result!

day2camchain.jpg 
So, with the rattle fixed I've decided to gloss over the compression test and not remove the engine.
day2naked.jpg 

ATC's do look good naked.
My next decision relates to the exhaust which i would really like to remove and refinish. Surprisingly all the corroded bolts released but the slip joint between the header and muffler definitely did not. I'll feed it some penetrating oil and see if i cant encourage it to release.
I think i'll cut the broken reflector tabs off the rack and keep the rear facing reflectors which are undamaged.
day2rack.jpg 
I don't want anyone thinking this battery box mod was my handy work, especially the beautiful welds and the large hole blown though the sissy bar, bar [rolleyes].
day2sissy.jpg 


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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #6 
I had to drill out the heat shield fasteners to access the slip joint so there's no going back from here - the exhaust has to come off one way or another which i might regret....
day2exhaust.jpg 

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #7 
With a bit of encouragement it finally let go. Its ugly but should bang back into shape.

day3exhaust.jpg 

I thought I had finished tear down but decided to also remove the battery box which had surface corrosion. Now I'm thinking the rear axle could do with a tidy up......

day3chassis.jpg 

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Luke30

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Reply with quote  #8 
Question for you: front axle removal? Did it come out pretty easily? Did you just pound out from left side?
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #9 
Hi Luke,
I guess i got lucky, it slipped right out....
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #10 
Wire brush on an angle grinder made short work of the crusty looking exhaust. Turns out its a NZ made aftermarket item which is still available here..... but worth as much as the bike.
day4 exhaust.jpg

Im using the same wire brush grinder combo to tidy up surface rust on the chassis which i will re-coat with POR15 or similar using a wee brush.
day4 chassis.jpg 

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olds442_hurst

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Reply with quote  #11 
Looking good
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #12 
Inevitably i decided pulling the rear end out was easier than trying to tidy up the chassis with it in situ. Apon removal i discovered a reasonable qty of gear oil in the driveshaft boot which I’m guessing could only have come from the diff via the drive shaft seal. A few questions;
1. Can’t find this oil seal for sale anywhere, anyone got any leads on that?
2. Any tips getting the U joint off the driveshaft? It may not need to come apart to replace the oil seal.
3. On the engine side of the driveshaft the output shaft feels ‘grumbly’ but its a meshed gear so that might be normal? Would like to get this out to check it but agin any tips on freeing this from the output gear case?

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bigredmark

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Reply with quote  #13 
If you can get the numbers off of the seal an auto parts store or internet search may help.

The U joint typically just slides off of the splined driveshaft. Maybe tapping it with a dead blow hammer will help.

You can feel the gears meshing through the output shaft if you rotate it by hand. It's hard to say if a feel is right or wrong since it is very subjective.
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #14 
Cheers Mark, I have found a seal of the same size but different part number which might do the trick;
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/honda/91262-463-005/b730412
I have the UJ spline soaking in penetrating oil so hopeful i'll get it apart and get the seal out without destroying it (in case i cant replace it).
Regards the out put shaft, there is a small amount of fore and aft movement which feels about right but there is at least 1 or 2mm of float up, down and sideways which is my primary concern.
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #15 
After a bit of head scratching and using a press I finally managed to get the UJ off the driveshaft and the driveshaft disassembled. It looks like this;
ATC200ES drive shaft.jpg 
The oil seal was the problem - being well past its best and allowing oil past the diff. It measures 43x52x7mm and is unavailable so far as i can find. The closest available size is 43x52x10mm so my plan is to machine a new spacer (the metal ring next to the seal) less 3mm which will position the wider seal correctly while also providing a wider seal surface which can only be good.

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