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VilliageI-Idiot

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Reply with quote  #16 
Following this one.  I'm doing the same trike.  

I won't lie, the differential and the gearbox on this engine has me terrified.  For all I plan to put into it, new cam gears and a clutch pack are a must......anyone wanna come take it apart and put it back together for me? LOL!!!

I was planning to clean up the rear end and re-install with nothing more than an oil change.  Now you got thinking about that seal.  *sigh*  Nothing gained from sitting on my arse.

You DEFINITELY need to do the ALLBALLS stem bearing upgrade.  I'm waiting for mine now.




Not sure what all would be involved in shipping something all the way down to Middle Earth but if there's a part you simply cannot find, I may have it.  Mine came with a 'pile' of extra 'stuff'.  

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #17 
Paint prep is so tedious but so important for a good result - Ive been putting off this job for long enough but the clocks ticking on my self imposed 'riding by summer' (Southern hemisphere) deadline. The chassis is in pretty good nick apart from a bit of surface rust so took to it with a wire bush attachment on the angle grinder, wiped it down with turps, masked it up ready for etch primer.
20180826_162333.jpg 
We dont know how lucky we are to still have access to genuine and affordable OEM parts! US$7ea for OEM grips - all day.
20180826_171540.jpg 
Even tracked down all of the missing OEM park brake bits.
20180826_170949.jpg 
Refinished the dash in matte black, carefully sanded the raised letters once painted.
20180826_171006.jpg 

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #18 
This is grim. I wasn't liking the way the transfer output shaft felt kind of loose and grumbly so decided to delve in despite the manual suggesting this is a dealer only operation.....
First up needed to work out a way of extracting the output shaft and housing and came up with this clamp to grab the housing around the boot groove;
1.jpg 
So far, so good;
2.jpg 
Using some M8 bolts I progressively backed the bolts out, there-by pressing the clamp. It worked mint so was patting myself on the back until....
3.jpg 
...this is what i found;
5.jpg 
4.jpg 
Its a bitter sweet - overall very glad i decided to investigate as it clearly was going to lunch itself probably moments after showing off doing wheelies. I'm hoping its not a similar story inside the subtrans but in the very least I'm a buyer for a side gear case if anyone has one? Looking on EBay it looks like the unit is shared by the TRX200 so not difficult to find.

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tosaw

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Reply with quote  #19 
I love your ingenuity and it's definitely a good thing you decided to investigate! That looks to me like it may clean up, you don't think so?
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #20 
Thank you. I will clean & inspect but the chunky bits are metallic, probably from the bearing and likely to have been munched up by the gear & bevel so probably better off finding a decent used 1.
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #21 
I managed to disassemble the driveshaft to access the oil seal using a vice and dumb luck. Since its under a reasonable amount of compression it could have easily gone horribly wrong and fired pieces across the workshop or into my face. Not wanting to push my luck I decided some kind of tool was needed.
These are the parts laid out in order;
4.jpg 
This is the compression tool i came up with. It looks flasher than it needed to be but i was just re-purposing some random alloy parts i had kicking around;
3.jpg 
Cranking down on the nuts compressed the spring allowing easy access to the cir-clip groove without spilling any beer or endangering my handsome face;
1.jpg 
On the left is the new wider 10mm oil seal on top of the 3mm thinner spacer next to the original 7mm oil seal and original spacer. To be honest I hadn't really noticed that the new seal had a metal shell until i took this photo so guess i'll insert it with some gasket goo or something...
2.jpg 

If anyone needs to use any of these tools I'd be happy to chuck them in the mail (to bigredmark perhaps?) so they are stateside for you fellas.



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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #22 
The front hub casting had an ugly chunk missing from the lip so decided to have a crack repairing it using a 'metal epoxy' compound (of which there are many);
Photo 27-05-18, 6 10 37 PM.jpg 
Using masking tape I created a 'pool' of epoxy around the damaged area;
1.jpg 
After bit of shaping with sandpaper and a coat of metallic aluminium a blind man would be pleased;
2.jpg 

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VilliageI-Idiot

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Reply with quote  #23 
Wow. Thanks for posting that.
I knew that little voice said "youre rear diff input is smooth and clean. Leave it alone"

Glad i listened. Jeez what a spring!

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Life is hard.  It's even harder if you're stupid.....unless you're not stupid and only playing stupid.  Then things get easier.  
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tosaw

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Reply with quote  #24 
That JB weld repair looks great! I just did something similar to the stator cover on my 350X.
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #25 
Cheers fellas.
Overall it would be easier just to buy replacement parts so I'm a bit confused as to why I bother... along the same lines the gear shift lever had seen better days and no longer conducive to changing gear in jandals;
Photo 6-05-18, 3 51 52 PM.jpg 
I have a basic mill and lathe in our workshop at work which allows me to fool around breaking tools while i learn on the fly. Using some nylon rod i machined a new jandal extension;
Photo 11-05-18, 9 46 20 AM.jpg 
I cut the old peg off then drilled and taped an M8 hole;
Photo 11-05-18, 9 56 12 AM.jpg 
Etch prime followed by matte black and a bit of old skateboard deck grip costing nothing but time and pleasure;
3.jpg 

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bigredmark

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Reply with quote  #26 
I agree with you. In many cases it is easier just to replace the parts. But getting into the repairs can be challenging and will get you exposed to new products and methods that give you options if replacement parts are not available and improve your skills. I enjoy your detailed posts. Thanks for sharing.
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tosaw

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Reply with quote  #27 
You taught me a new word, jandals. I would think that grip tape would be pretty rough on the feet too but nice engineering as always.
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #28 
There's a bit of chat around front forks at the mo and as it happens I'm knee deep in it.
I knew early on this was never going to be good;
1.jpg 
Completely forked....
2.jpg 
Once dissembled it became clear why one see's so many of these puppies with welded forks.
3.jpg 
I've been keeping an eye out for mini bike, pit bike style front forks that might be able to be adapted and came across these $50 items - apparently aftermarket forks for a Honda mini bike of some description. They happen to be close in length and in diameter so with little to lose I'm going to have a crack.
4.jpg 
I'm pretty happy with the quality of them given the price and very conveniently the new fork tubes are assembled with a single bolt from below just like the originals.
5.jpg 
 First challenge is to get the new fork leg married to the old. I've hacked off the various brackets and wotnot so I can get the fork tube into the lathe. This could all turn custard at any moment so stay tuned.

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #29 
Standing over a lathe can’t compete with the beach right now in NZ but I have made a start on the fork legs.

Attached Images
jpeg 7B482185-62B4-4422-89C4-8226FC9F86DE.jpeg (454.84 KB, 2 views)

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #30 
And finished up the rear axle. The wee spring between the UJ and the trans drive was missing but I noticed the front shocks (which were scrap) had 1 that will do the trick.

Attached Images
jpeg C0047D72-5EA5-4CFA-B80A-4CEEA9D79104.jpeg (685.77 KB, 5 views)
jpeg 76A7668F-EC6C-4E82-B09F-A0288B6A4F08.jpeg (562.52 KB, 5 views)

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