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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #31 
And got the replacement trans drive installed. Wasnt feeling 100% confident about diving into the sub trans but it has to come out to get to the trans drive. It was actually pretty straight forward, apart from the entire gear set coming out with the case which is OK but a few of the shims from between the cogs slipped out of place. Using the manual was able to work out what was what and got them zip tied in ordered. Fortunately its all pretty mint once cleaned up except for the case bearings and the indent ball bearing which looked like a rusty stone. The selector drum looked grim but cleaned up mint thankfully.

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #32 
While waiting for the bearings to be shipped ive etch primed and top coated the case and cover plate. The raised letters I carefully sanded back with wet&dry sand paper.

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #33 
Before i splashed on a blind hole bearing puller set (I'll maybe never use again) I decided to have a go DIY style...
10 minutes fooling around on the lathe produced this threaded plug with a small lip which I sliced longitudinally with a hacksaw.
bearing pull1.jpg 
The hacksaw cuts allowed the plug to compress and the lip push through the bearing. Threaded rod expanded the plug and gripped the bearing.
bearing pull2.jpg 
Used a bit of scrap steel plate to span the housing and cranked on the rod with a nut.
bearing pull3.jpg 
Presto, beer o'clock!
bearing pull4.jpg 

 

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tosaw

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Reply with quote  #34 
Great engineering and wow, that bearing has definitely seen better days!
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #35 
Cheers @tosaw, to think i nearly didn't dig into the sub trans at all.... Every time i see a pic online of a submerged BigRed chugging across a pond makes me shudder!
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #36 
Feels like I'm on the home straight.....
RHS.jpg 

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bigredmark

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Reply with quote  #37 
Assembly is my favorite stage of a restoration. It is looking great! Nice work.
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #38 
For sure Mark, its worth savoring and thank you. I've still got the forks to finish and then the tank but i can see the light!
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #39 
Preparing to move house has definitely interrupted progress but its also a motivator to get as many bits bolted back on as i can!
rack3.jpg 
 The exhaust came out nice after some wire wheel grinder action;
rack2.jpg 
day4 exhaust.jpg 
I've replaced pretty much every crusty old bolt with 304SS button head bolts.
The parts trike had a nicer sissy bar which i cleaned up and clear coated - we'll see how long that lasts.
rack1.jpg 
sissy bar2.jpg 

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #40 
Im not sure how this happened but i need to re-title this thread 'Restomod'. My attention has been diverted into house hunting recently hence the lack of posts but I've got myself seriously sidetracked with a pure bolt on conversion for the rear guards. I do actually have a nice set of guards which need a little bit of repair but also a junk set from the donor trike. This conversion is using the junk guards, generic SS trailer guards, 3/4" kitchen chopping boards and requires no modification to the trike whatsoever.
1.jpg 
It started with me thinking about creating some kind of running board that would prevent a passenger or less experienced rider (aka wife) from running over her own heals or worse.
I started with a plywood template;
4.jpg 
Then went looking for HDPE sheet finding it expensive but found commercial kitchen chopping boards that came in red and were cheap as!
The only downside was needing to use 2 but i kind of like the extra meaty skid plate it has created;
5.jpg 
I used 304 SS fasteners throughout, countersinking them for a flush fit. I used a regular DIY jigsaw and router to cut and shape the PE chopping boards.
The front of the running boards 'clamp' the OEM peg mounts, sandwiched by a 2nd layer of board cut to serve as foot pegs.
18.jpg 
17.jpg 
The foot brake was a bit tricky but getting it right with the plywood template saved many chopping boards.....
16.jpg 
For guards i found a generic tandem axle trailer guard (i cut in 1/2) which looked like it was going to be close or close enuff dimension wise.
11.jpg 
I trimmed the trailing edge to match the factory mudflaps.
12.jpg 
I did drill some fresh holes in the mudflap for a snug fit.
15.jpg 
I used some nylon spacers to bolt the guard onto the factory rack mounts.
14.jpg 
13.jpg 
By total fluke the OEM rack supports fitted by extending the slotted hole. A small bracket using guard off cuts bolts up to the OEM rubber bush rack mounts. 
10.jpg 
The front lip of the guards had a conveniently formed channel which I bolted through to the running boards. Its all added up to a nice stiff structure.
9.jpg 
I trimmed the junk guards following the line of the new guards as much as possible using jigsaw then tidied up using a palm sander with 180 grit. I didn't do a before and after but they were badly scared and dinged but after only 30mins of sanding they came up real nice - I'm undecided if i keep going with finer grit then polish or paint them from here.
3.jpg 
2.jpg    
I can hardly wait to have a 'peel off the protective layer and have a few beers' ceremony.

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phil anderer

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Reply with quote  #41 
"My plan is more to recommission than say restore"  

Id love to see one of restorations man lol , great job... its been great following this. Wish I was half as clever as you ! 

Good work dude ! 

Phil[thumb]
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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #42 
Back on2 the front forks, running low on time I decided on a much simpler solution. That being a solid nylon insert that is an interference fit into both the fork leg and the fork housing. Pretty much unbreakable and even a little bit compliant should i ever nose dive it into something;
6.jpg 
Since the fork leg runs down inside the housing it needed a bush around the top of the housing to keep it all stiff. There's a threaded hole in the bottom of the nylon insert so the housing can be held in place with a bolt and washer - not that its coming out anytime soon. The OEM shock bolt does the same job locating the nylon housing in the fork leg.
7.jpg 
The top of the fork housings were badly rusted and needed 3/4" trimmed off the top.
8.jpg 
No name ebay fork boots completed the look. Gotta find some suitable band clamps and haven't fitted the top bolt mount in this pic.
11.jpg 
I've found the 'Rustoleum' rattle cans to have a far superior spray nozzle than any other brand.
10.jpg 
The stock 'cherry' red is close enuff for me and the satin finish followed by the clear coat is gooder than chicken. We will see how it looks on the tank soon(ish).
12.jpg

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Godscogs

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Reply with quote  #43 
Getting close now, sporting 3 wheels for the 1st time in a long time. Front guard polished up nice with regular car polish and a foam pad attachment on the battery drill.
13.jpg 
Decided on non-purist matte black for the rims.
14.jpg 
Managed to cobble up enough new and used parts to complete the control levers which work real nice now.
rear braker lever.jpg 
Dash complete. I think its ready to fire up.....
dash.jpg

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